Hovel, Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese

Hovel, Scharzhofberger Riesling AusleseThe subtly flower wreathed von Hovel 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese is cider like in its tart edged and spice tinged apple fruit. Extremely delicate, and with thankfully restrained sense of sweetness, it strokes the palate gently and finishes with soothing understatement but relative simplicity. Rather than the attractively soft edges and transparency of this year's Hohecker Riesling, I find this Scharzhofberger Auslese just a tad blurry. I

tightly wound and dry finish is like rolling small stone around in the mouth and this is textbook Perrières

Gaudy and flamboyant

An excellent showing

well-supported by about eight grams of residual sugar

or over the next 15 years

taut tannins

Big and powerful

juicy plum on nose and palate

I have never tasted such a wide rage of quality nor so many unusually distinctive and at times downright inscrutable wines at this address as those of 2004

(vinified with 60% whole clusters)

cassis and spiced plum

but with extended aeration showed a stronger