Michel Lafarge, Volnay Clos Ducs

Michel Lafarge, Volnay Clos Ducs(from 50+ year old vines; a monopole of the domaine). Lafarge explained that this was made from fruit that was destemmed by hand using what the Burgundians call a claie en osier, or a lattice made of wicker that was placed on top of a fermenter; this approach was sometimes used in the 19th C). A dazzlingly pure, fresh and soaring nose features notes of essence of red cherry, currant, spice and soft floral scents. While the medium weight flavors do not

This has serious spine

It's that elusive combination of concentration and complexity

Vegy mulch notes

with the bitter structure and the exaggerated phenolic ripeness of the growing season

Reduction once again dominates the nose

with its dense and muscular big-bodied flavors that terminate in a beautifully complex if mildly edgy and dry finale

with lovely tension and chalky back-end grip

It's a totally brilliant wine bristling with energy

fig and boysenberry confiture flavors rolling through

Edge of tarmacadam on the end

A strikingly good effort for the vintage that is worth a look

Best from 2022 through 2033