Van Volxem, Goldberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Van Volxem, Goldberg Riesling Grosses GewachsFrom slightly reddish slate soils, the Wawerner 2015 Goldberg Riesling has a very clear, fine and flinty bouquet of perfectly ripe Riesling fruits. Round, intense and piquant, with a good concentration and a ripe, lush fruit, this is a medium to full bodied, yet finessed and elegantly dry Riesling. It has a crystalline finish and a good, still somewhat bitter and yeasty length. Keep the Goldberg for five more years in case you prefer it less fleshy,

All the classic Monfortino signatures come through in an epic

There is no reason to hold this any longer

but in 2008 the wine has gorgeous inner perfume allied to a level of pure juiciness that rounds out some of the rough edges that are at times present in this bottling

and think it needs another 2-3 years of cellaring

balances youthful structure with persistent inner perfumes and primary fruit

After going through a transitional period after Jacques Reynaud died in 1997

Exceptionally pretty aromas of honeysuckle

Very generous wood stops just short of completely dominating the otherwise fresh and ripe red berry fruit

restrained and admirably pure nose is composed of various red berry fruit

the 2015 Gran Enemigo is 50% Malbec

Heading into the first plateau of its maturity

In this case though I suspect that the dryness is more related to the copious level of gas than any significant deficit of phenolic maturity