Louis Roederer, Cristal

Louis Roederer, CristalThe 2004 Brut Cristal has put on quite a bit of weight since I first tasted it earlier this year. It is a powerful, structured Cristal layered with considerable fruit. Chardonnay seems to play the leading role in 2004, at least today. Cristal is often accessible young, but that is far from the case here. This is a serious, painfully young Cristal that will require considerable patience. Readers who are willing to spend some time with the wine today

As Christian Seely quipped

Still rather closed in the mouth following the recent bottling

The wine is subtle and harmonious

but it closes down to reveal a tart

the medium-gold colored 2004 Ermitage le Meal Blanc is another incredibly concentrated

with steadily building tannins and lingering florality

Possessing medium-bodied richness

this blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon

Luciano Sandrone and his daughter Barbara tell me that the 2014 harvest needs explaining

This is quite an elegant wine with lovely harmony and strikingly good balance

punch and intensity on the rustic and ever-so-slightly warm finish

the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Réservée is a classic